Start of Trip

21 August 2011

It’s 7 pm and we’re at the Pearson airport in our home port of Toronto, Canada. All of us are fairly buzzing with excitement since we’re off to a Central European holiday. I’ve been plotting and planning this for a long while, drawing in the skeins of our differing schedules skillfully so that the dream becomes a reality. Our daughters – Mimi, on leave from a coop term at the University, and Ritu, our youngest just a 16-going-on-17 teen, accompany Asit and me as we walk the long movators inside the terminal.

When we find seats at our designated gate number 175, Mimi goes off to have a burger from Coyote Jack’s, Ritu decides on a bagel with cream cheese from Tim Hortons. Asit and I decide to skip the restaurant food and I dug into my voluminous bag for home-style sandwiches. Ritu claims she’s still hungry and hijacked one of my sandwiches. She seems surprised that it was good! We’re waiting in the lounge and can see the Air Canada aircraft prepping for our journey to Munich. Our flight AC 846 is scheduled for 8.20 pm. We should be boarding shortly.

While we were coming to the airport, the sky seemed like it was about to burst. A thunderstorm was forecast. There was a little bit of rain, but the sky has cleared up now. All set to go to Munich, or Munchen as it is locally known!

9.00 pm

Our flight was delayed for over an hour. Air Canada, sigh! Still, it wasn’t too bad I suppose. People had queued up much beforehand. As if, just by standing at the gates, the process would be expedited and we would find ourselves transported magically into the aircraft. Anyway, our turn soon came, and we trooped into the plane with relief. Seating isn’t too good – the configuration is 3-3-3, so Asit and I are sitting in the front and the girls are behind us. I’m a little sleepy and quite hungry. But must wait I suppose. Everyone’s looking at the list of movies they’re showing on the flight.

3.00 pm

We’re flying over the Irish Sea at the moment. We’re crossed Belfast. The Atlantic lies in our past at this point. Can’t sleep much which is irritating. Usually I do sleep well. The girls are asleep. It is late night in Canada. Today is our little Khushi’s 8^th birthday. We will be flying over Manchester shortly. I will send her my loving wishes. Last year, at this time, we were deep in Ontario’s cottage country – in Winnetou resort. Strange to think! Tea is being served. I will have one. Destination Munich isn’t far. YAY!

22 August

10.45 am

And so our vacation begins. Landed in Munich.

1.15 pm

The Cosmos guy was waiting for us at the airport. Clearing customs was not a problem at all. Smooth sailing. The airport seemed as per usual. I noticed a Starbucks, probably because all of us were so hungry. The Cosmos rep loaded us and two other tourists from NY into a mini van. They were a mother and son pair, Giovanna and Alex Baretto. The boy was Ritu’s age, and they were also going on our tour. So we made our first acquaintance with fellow travelers. We drove into the little town of Schwaig, and stopped at the NH Munchen Airport hotel in just 20 minutes. Checked in and inspected our rooms. They were neat, just as I had hoped. The hotel is actually pretty quiet, few visitors, and without the usual North American décor we take for granted. We were hungry as hunters and decided to have a meal at the restaurant. Very limited choice, but I decided to take the bull by the horns. I asked the tall young man at the bar if I could order an egg sandwich. The girls ordered pizza. We had to wait for a bit in the deserted restaurant before the order came. But it tasted good. The potato wedges were crispily golden. The meal has cheered us up immensely. Now time for a bath and a nap.

8.45 pm

Nuremberg

8.20 am

After a great tasting breakfast, we are on the big white Cosmos coach. It’s a very comfortable bus and we hope to start in a couple of minutes towards Nuremburg.

11.30 am

We’ve left Nuremburg behind and are on our way to Prague in the Czech Republic. Reaching Nuremburg through the fast Autobahn was exciting. Of course the bus didn’t go too fast. When we were starting out this morning, a lone traveler turned up late, holding up the entire bus. Everyone was grumbling good naturedly as we all were ready to leave. She came into the bus at least 20 minutes late. Still, as we started, Steven or Istevan (our Hungarian guide) gave us the program for the day. We passed hop fields, ripely swaying in the sun. We were told hops are used to make beer for which Bavaria is famous. Entering Nuremburg, we saw the city walls which are actually quite recent – they were rebuilt in the 1920s I believe. The whole city was bombed heavily in both the world wars. We stopped at the city square and were given two hours to explore the square. It was a picturesque square, very European with cobbled streets, old churches, eye-catching stonework and an open air market. As we were walking around the Hauptmarkt square, drinking in the sights, we came across a guy playing mystic-sounding melodies on the French horn. The square is where the famous Christmas market is held every year. It originated in the mid 16^th century and is continuing to this day much to the delight to tourists. Many of the buildings around the square have murals painted on them, depicting medieval themes. One had a fancy golden compass, a ship with unfurled sails, and an apothecary with his followers. We walked in the shadow of the Church Frauenkirche, past the Augustiner Strasse, marveling at the verdigris coated spires. The church was old, wonderfully carved with gilded figures rapt in prayer, and lit with stained glass windows. Outside, in the sunshine, were shops selling multi coloured beads, exquisitely handiworked lace doilies, hand made chocolate with fantastic names, dolls and fanciful animals. In the middle of the square was a gothic structure called Schöner Brunnen. Steven mentioned that it had magical qualities. You have to touch the magic ring and ask for a wish – it comes true apparently! You can imagine, we were willing to ‘suspend our disbelief’, and did the needful. It was then time to board the bus and move onward to the Czech Republic, towards Prague, the capital city.

Prague

10.45 pm

We’re putting up at the Barcelo Prague which is near the Metro station. The rooms are quite nice. In the evening, we joined an excursion to a folkloric evening. We left the hotel at 7 pm and have only just returned. Though now we are very tired, the evening was pretty awesome. The venue was a restaurant, a fair distance from the city centre. We drove through the city in the evening, and I must point out that I wasn’t extremely impressed. When we entered the outskirts, the drive turned interesting. It was almost dark by the time we reached the restaurant. Inside, we were welcomed by a woman in traditional costume, and seated at tables reserved for our party. We were served Becherovka, a traditional Czech drink made with 40 types of herbs. It smelt strongly of cinnamon and packed a strong punch. The room was decorated in a rustic style, with long wooden tables for guests, shelves on the walls displaying blue and white Czech pottery and dolls, and a space for musicians and dancers. The musicians in traditional peasant clothing were gearing up for the program. Violins, cellos and a huge xylophone-like instrument were being handled by the performers as we tried to regain our senses after the Becherovka shots! The ochre-coloured walls reflected the cheerful lights inside as servers moved past the tables serving wine and the famous Czech beer. Lively music accompanied our meal. The first course was a cream of mushroom soup, followed by roasted chicken and vegetables as the main course. It was delicious, specially since we were entertained by the dancing pair, and a lady with a superb voice singing Czech songs full of verve and energy. The music was foreign to us, but the rhythms were so catchy that we couldn’t help but join in with claps and whistles. The male dancer was wonderful – lithe and supple, he leaped to join the gypsy woman who was his partner in the act. He wore a red silk shirt, black trousers and boots which tapped against the wooden floor. The woman was dressed in a gypsy skirt complete with shining sequins and baubles. Shortly after, there was a break while we were served dessert – crepe with ice cream. It was delicious. The program resumed with the hostess warning us that it was time for us to be involved in it as well. Asit was asked to play the cymbals. Then the violinist came up to me, pulled me to the floor and announced he was going to teach me the Mazurka, their traditional dance. The steps were easy and it was great fun. He pulled other people on the floor and it got faster and faster. We broke into thunderous applause at the end as we resumed our seats. Then the musicians played some beautiful pieces by Bach (Ave Maria) and a Czech composer. The evening ended with an ‘Auld Lang Syne’. It was about 10 and we trooped into the hotel tired but replete with new experiences.

8.30 am

Today was the city tour for Prague, or Praha, as it is locally known. We had a local guide called Michaela, and in her charmingly accented English, gave us a wealth of information about this city. What an amazing history the city has! Right from the reign of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, through the imperial Hapsburgs of Austria, through years of Nazi German rule, Stalin’s communism and then finally, the Velvet Revolution (so called because there was no blood shed). We passed Soviet-era landmarks like a TV tower and pigeon hole apartment buildings till I was beginning to despair. Tram lines and handsome grey buildings, Skoda cars and clock towers pave the way to our destination, the Charles Bridge. This bridge is in the centre of Prague’s red-roofed old town. The Charles Bridge where we were dropped off sits over the Vtlava river. The broad expanse of the river sported steamers waiting for tourists. It was obvious that history just seeps out over the old battlements and squares. It was thrilling beyond measure to walk those cobbled streets, past the Jewish ghetto, the cemetery and the little place where they ran their schools and synagogues in secret. The Jewish ghetto is known as the Josefov and its gory history begins in the 13^th century when the Jews in Prague were asked to settle in one area. Jews have lived in Prague for over a thousand years. We came to the Charles Bridge with its distinctive yellow columns with a winged angel at its crown. All around we saw classically elegant buildings with verdigris spires or red roofs. The gates of the bridge were decorated with sculptures of holy men, angels and winged women with staffs. Musicians played harps, horns and cellos on the bridge, souvenir sellers displayed their wares. We admired the stunning architecture of the city as seen from the riverside. Walking around with our group we came upon the star attraction – the Astronomical clock. A magnificent structure first built in 1410, the clock with its stationary background and ring of the zodiac is distinctive in many ways, not least because it is so old. There are 4 figures set in motion every hour – the Jew with his bag of gold representing greediness, the Turk representing pleasure, another Vanity, and a skeleton which is of course, Death. We craned our necks amid the throng of tourists so as not to miss the show at the hour of noon. Something was due to happen at that magical hour, we were told. Icecream sticks in hand, we looked upwards at the clock tower. At the stroke of 12, a door opened and the 12 apostles marched out and the golden rooster crowed out the hour. A herald sounded his bugle – it was a fantastic experience. The next two hours were free, so we decided to do a bit if exploring on our own. We ate our Subway lunch and walked around the cobbled square. The next item on our itinerary was a tour of medieval Prague. Not something that a history lover can afford to miss. Our first stop was the St Vitus’ Cathedral located in the castle on top of a hill. It’s impossible to describe the grandeur of the Cathedral. Gothic in conception, spires reaching heavenward, delicate filigree work, a massive scale and the romance of thousands of magnificent carvings, the Cathedral is a true work of art. It was deliciously cool inside the Cathedral after the heat wave outside. Wonderful stories are told through the stained glass panels. In the royal crypt within the Cathedral lie Bohemian kings and queens. We visited the castle grounds, and paid a visit to the Basilica as well. Not as impressive after the Cathedral since besides its grandeur, everything pales in comparison. The walking tours was about 2 hours and included a trip to the Golden Lane. This is an ancient street with 11 miniature houses set within the castle complex and dates from the 15^th century. We were charmed to find Franz Kafka’s house in the Golden Lane. It was an exhausting day because of the heat, but its 7.30pm and time for dinner. We eat at the Barcelo’s restaurant tonight.

Vienna

6.15 am

After an early start from Prague, we cross into Austria. We’re in Vienna now, or Wein, as the Germanic name goes. It is a gracious city with oodles of old world charm. The buildings are all in Romanesque or Gothic style, though Steven pointed out some sporting Art Nouveau heritage as well. Magnificent is the only word to describe most of the public buildings. White marble with gorgeous Corinthian pillars, gilt figures proudly shining on top. The city tour we went on was enough to convince us that this is one place which has ‘come-back-again’ flavour. We were let off at Schwedenplatz, shortly after which we boarded the bus starting with the Ring Road. We were taken past the Heroes square and the Hofburg Palace (the winter palace of the Habsburgs). It is huge, maginificent in character and there is a statue of the famous Austrian empress Maria Theresia, mother of 16 children. She ruled over the huge Austrian empire and was mother to Marie Antionette. The Palace is now a state building. Part of it is the President’s chambers. We saw the Lippizann horses at the Spanish Riding School, also known as the dancing horses. The famous show of these horses is apparently booked upto 18 months in advance. Still, we got to see some of the horses in their stables. Moving on to St Stephen’s Cathedral, we marveled at the grandeur of the 12^th century buildings built of limestone. The pulpit was particularly interesting as were numerous stained glass windows and paintings of antiquity. We passed the beautiful Viennese Concert House where Mozart’s music is a regular feature. Lots of Gothic and Renaissance styles intermingling to create an unforgettable experience. Our tour of the city was over by 4.30 and we were in the Bellevue Hotel by 5.00 pm. The hotel building was a gracious one but it seemed like an old one, much in keeping with the general flavour of the city. After short naps, we decided to take in some sightseeing of our own. There were trams just two minutes away from the hotel, and so we hopped into one going towards the city centre near the Town Hall. In front of the magnificent façade of the Neo-Gothic Town Hall, there is an open air park and square. A festival of classical music was due to start shortly we found. There were stalls with food from different parts of the world, and the place was thronged with people. The program, a recording of Mahler (symphony No.8), started up and after dining on Indian food from a Pakistani stall called Indus, we sat down on the chairs with hundreds of people to savour the divine music. We left the Town Hall and took the tram back to our hotel after the magical evening.

9.00 am

We were due to the visit the 17^th century Schonbrunn Palace, formerly a hunting lodge, seat of the Austro-Hungarian emperors and empresses. The palace has been compared to Versailles, and quite rightly I would think. Painted in a distinctive yellow (known as the Schonbrunn yellow), this vast imperial complex had been home to the famous Habsburgs of Austria. We saw rooms of the Empress Sisi, Franz Joseph and of course Maria Theresia, furnished in the 19^th century styles of opulence and beauty. The Schonbrunn is flanked by Baroque style gardens which have retained their originality since the days of Empress Sisi, beloved by the Austrians. Lots of marble statues, red begonias, green palms and grass, all set off with the sprawling yellow palace – wonderful vista of taste and beauty. Our bus dropped us off at Schwedenplatz and we lunched on the Lebanese doner ( chicken sandwich). The girls predictable had noodles and pizza. Now we were moving onward towards Budapest, the capital of Hungary.

Budapest

9.00 pm

We have crossed Gyor and we’re in Budapest now. Our abode is the Hotel Mercure Buda. The hotel is good but the city itself, at first glance is run down. People seem to be hurrying past, as if burdened by their problems. In fact, after the splendors of Vienna, Budapest is a disappointment with its crumbling buildings and broken sidewalks, poky uninteresting shops and not too much greenery. The unpronounceable street names also rile us. Very Russian Bloc, communist era type of impression evoking images of hunger of the spirit and mind so far. Of course it could be that the area where the hotel is situated is not too fancy. Hopefully tomorrow n our city tour we’ll see something to spike our interest. We had dinner at the hotel restaurant – chicken and veggie sizzler washed down with a glass of white wine. Not too bad. We’ll see what happens tomorrow.

6.00 pm

Our tour of the twin cities of Buda and Pest was interesting. The two cities are divided by the mighty river Danube. Our guide was Amie and proved to be pretty knowledgeable. We first visited the Heroes Square which I liked very much. It is an open square in the middle of the city which commemorates its founders and important figure for the past 1000 years. The main monument was built in 1896. Hungarians are very proud of their square as it tells their history. Originally nomads from the Ural mountains in Central Asia, the Hungarians were actually members of 7 tribes who banded together to form the mighty Magyar people. The area was administered by King Stephen I, until an attack by the Mongols who, under the notorious Khans brought the city to its knees. Luckily for the new Hungarians, after the death of the reigning Khan, the Mongols returned to their homeland and the royal house of Arpad began the task of laying down roots and rebuilding. They formed the kingdom of Hungary and the 1000 years of their history is very interesting. There is also a connection with the Hapsburgs. The huge Austro Hungarian empire was ruled by Emperor Franz Josef and Empress Sisi. Later of course, Hungary came under Stalinist rule and paid a heavy price for its flirtation with Communism. Stalin died in 1954 and within the next 2 years, Hungarians had pulled down his statue. The Heroes Square is in memory of their more glorious past. We visited the Buda castle which dominated the hill. It provides spectacular views of the city and the river Danube. The cathedral on the hill had breath taking mosaic handiwork on its spires. Tonight we have a dinner cruise on the Danube – Mimi is treating!

10.30 pm

Just back from the very amazing and wonderful cruise on the Danube. On either side of the river, buildings were lit up as was the chain bridge. I cannot describe how the fully illuminated Hungarian Parliament looked! We had a great tasting dinner and went up to the deck of the boat to watch the buildings. It was extremely windy, and cold. But the sight was simply superb. We would not have missed this for anything. The majesty of the Parliament buildings is to be seen to be believed. Tomorrow we are on our way to Salzburg, Austria. Can’t wait!

Salzburg

9.00 pm

We’re just back from an amazing evening walk in Salzburg. What an great looking place! The journey itself was through a scenic route and we saw vineyards, hills and terraced gardens. Oh, and a real abbey in a small village called Melk. But when we were driving past Hungary and the moment we entered Austria, the change in scenery was dramatic. We passed the Wachau Valley which straddles the Danube. Lots of tiny villages with bright flowers spilling out over window sills, old stone churches and vineyards on the hills. At the Benedictine Melk abbey overlooking the Danube, we were wonderstruck by the beauty and serenity. The very air seemed peace laden which is not surprising since monks have inhabited this abbey since 1089. Though there were so many tourists, I was taken by the aura of stillness that pervaded the place. Mango-coloured walls against a backdrop of deep blue sky, flanked on one side by a whitewashed abbey buildings, and red oleanders on the other, paved cobbled courtyards with marble statuary and fountains with mythical figures - oh the abbey was a delight to the senses. We wanted to explore the gardens but were pressed for time. The chapel inside was a feast for the eyes with its spectacular gold filigree work and painted ceilings. We went down the hill to the tiny village of Melk for lunch in small café. We had fish, and for dessert, Mimi had a apple pie with custard. Narrow streets, cobbled, with gas lamps and window boxes bursting with cheerful reds and yellows. Sitting at the café, if you looked upwards, you saw the bulk of the Neo-Gothic Abbey. It was nothing short of magical. I thought I would never see anything to top this, on the tour. But wait, the journey towards Salzburg was just beginning! We stopped at a lake, Mondsee or Moonlake, where some parts of the famous ‘Sound of Music’ was shot. It was simply stunning and we took lots of pictures before continuing onward to Salzburg. We put up at the Ramada Hotel situated right in the middle of the shopping district.

6.30pm

Salzburg means salt castle, did you know? We walked to the centre of the town, through streets studded with churches and buildings in Baroque style. A mellow church with twin towers rang its bell at the hour while we walked towards the river Salzach. The town is also the birthplace of Mozart, so its claim to fame is assured in history. The old castle brooded on the hill, a bridge stood over the river and there was a promise of wooded areas beyond. While returning, we made a stop at the Mirabelle Schloss, or Mirabelle’s House. The gardens are famous and we could see why. Formal walkways, paths between old yews, statues of nymphs and lions and the arrangement of flowers was eye catching in symmetry. The palace itself is large and a fine example of Baroque architecture with some Neo-classical influences. Today this splendid complex houses the mayor’s office and the municipal council of Salzburg.

Back to Munich

9.00 am

After a quick breakfast we were on the Sound of Music Tour. In reality, it is a city of Salzburg tour as much as a SOM tour. We were at the Hellbrunn palace where most of SOM was shot. But of course, we had to stand for a few minutes to pay homage to the gazebo where ‘I-am16-going-on-17’ was shot. The Hellbrunn itself was a 17^th century day house for the Prince-Archbishop of Austria. There are lots of trick fountains and splendid vistas for visitors to the palace. We saw an orangery, grottos, statues of unicorns and Baroque sculptures as well. Very peaceful with lots of large trees and extensive parklands bordering the palace. We had only 30 minutes at Hellbrunn after which we climbed a hill in Salzburg to a convent for more SOM references. The convent is rather an atmospheric place. Lots of gloomy dark corners in the church interiors. Nuns still live here. I lit a candle and thought, if PD James visited this church, she’d be sure to set a murder scene here. Outside the gloomy interior, we walked upwards, admiring the mountains ringing the city. Gorgeous views all around. We were reminded of the ‘lonely goatherd’ as well. In the old days, our guide informed us, the Mother Superior at the convent dispensed justice to the villagers. We passed a very old brewery and came upon the St Peter’s cemetery where the SOM escape scene was filmed. A thrilling moment for all of us SOM fans! Everywhere there were tall towers with medieval gargoyles looking down. Our guide led us to the main square called, naturally enough, Mozart square. Indeed his statue with the violin stood as a reminder of the maestro. We saw the house where he was born. It had a yellow façade. The story is that his family had rented rooms there. Though he was born in Salzburg, he did most of his work in Vienna. After lunch at the square, it was time to explore and souvenir shop.

4.30 pm

We reached Munich, on the last leg of our trip. After freshening up a bit, we got together with our fellow travelers to visit Marienplatz, the main square in Munich. The Gothic Rathaus was certainly worth seeing. There is a column in the middle of the square with Mary and baby Jesus on the top, in gold. Thus Marienplatz (Mary’s Square). There were lots of people just walking the streets, the cafes were full. But we found a place and had coffee and cake. We did have a bit of time to spare and visited the Kaufhoff, a large department store. Later in the evening, we listened to jazz played by the Munich Groove Connection. The violinist was superb. Returning to our hotel, we bade goodbye to all our companions. It was the end of a very memorable tour. Home on an early flight in the morning.