Prague

10.45 pm

We’re putting up at the Barcelo Prague which is near the Metro station. The rooms are quite nice. In the evening, we joined an excursion to a folkloric evening. We left the hotel at 7 pm and have only just returned. Though now we are very tired, the evening was pretty awesome. The venue was a restaurant, a fair distance from the city centre. We drove through the city in the evening, and I must point out that I wasn’t extremely impressed. When we entered the outskirts, the drive turned interesting. It was almost dark by the time we reached the restaurant. Inside, we were welcomed by a woman in traditional costume, and seated at tables reserved for our party. We were served Becherovka, a traditional Czech drink made with 40 types of herbs. It smelt strongly of cinnamon and packed a strong punch. The room was decorated in a rustic style, with long wooden tables for guests, shelves on the walls displaying blue and white Czech pottery and dolls, and a space for musicians and dancers. The musicians in traditional peasant clothing were gearing up for the program. Violins, cellos and a huge xylophone-like instrument were being handled by the performers as we tried to regain our senses after the Becherovka shots! The ochre-coloured walls reflected the cheerful lights inside as servers moved past the tables serving wine and the famous Czech beer. Lively music accompanied our meal. The first course was a cream of mushroom soup, followed by roasted chicken and vegetables as the main course. It was delicious, specially since we were entertained by the dancing pair, and a lady with a superb voice singing Czech songs full of verve and energy. The music was foreign to us, but the rhythms were so catchy that we couldn’t help but join in with claps and whistles. The male dancer was wonderful – lithe and supple, he leaped to join the gypsy woman who was his partner in the act. He wore a red silk shirt, black trousers and boots which tapped against the wooden floor. The woman was dressed in a gypsy skirt complete with shining sequins and baubles. Shortly after, there was a break while we were served dessert – crepe with ice cream. It was delicious. The program resumed with the hostess warning us that it was time for us to be involved in it as well. Asit was asked to play the cymbals. Then the violinist came up to me, pulled me to the floor and announced he was going to teach me the Mazurka, their traditional dance. The steps were easy and it was great fun. He pulled other people on the floor and it got faster and faster. We broke into thunderous applause at the end as we resumed our seats. Then the musicians played some beautiful pieces by Bach (Ave Maria) and a Czech composer. The evening ended with an ‘Auld Lang Syne’. It was about 10 and we trooped into the hotel tired but replete with new experiences.

8.30 am

Today was the city tour for Prague, or Praha, as it is locally known. We had a local guide called Michaela, and in her charmingly accented English, gave us a wealth of information about this city. What an amazing history the city has! Right from the reign of Holy Roman Emperor Charles IV, through the imperial Hapsburgs of Austria, through years of Nazi German rule, Stalin’s communism and then finally, the Velvet Revolution (so called because there was no blood shed). We passed Soviet-era landmarks like a TV tower and pigeon hole apartment buildings till I was beginning to despair. Tram lines and handsome grey buildings, Skoda cars and clock towers pave the way to our destination, the Charles Bridge. This bridge is in the centre of Prague’s red-roofed old town. The Charles Bridge where we were dropped off sits over the Vtlava river. The broad expanse of the river sported steamers waiting for tourists. It was obvious that history just seeps out over the old battlements and squares. It was thrilling beyond measure to walk those cobbled streets, past the Jewish ghetto, the cemetery and the little place where they ran their schools and synagogues in secret. The Jewish ghetto is known as the Josefov and its gory history begins in the 13^th century when the Jews in Prague were asked to settle in one area. Jews have lived in Prague for over a thousand years. We came to the Charles Bridge with its distinctive yellow columns with a winged angel at its crown. All around we saw classically elegant buildings with verdigris spires or red roofs. The gates of the bridge were decorated with sculptures of holy men, angels and winged women with staffs. Musicians played harps, horns and cellos on the bridge, souvenir sellers displayed their wares. We admired the stunning architecture of the city as seen from the riverside. Walking around with our group we came upon the star attraction – the Astronomical clock. A magnificent structure first built in 1410, the clock with its stationary background and ring of the zodiac is distinctive in many ways, not least because it is so old. There are 4 figures set in motion every hour – the Jew with his bag of gold representing greediness, the Turk representing pleasure, another Vanity, and a skeleton which is of course, Death. We craned our necks amid the throng of tourists so as not to miss the show at the hour of noon. Something was due to happen at that magical hour, we were told. Icecream sticks in hand, we looked upwards at the clock tower. At the stroke of 12, a door opened and the 12 apostles marched out and the golden rooster crowed out the hour. A herald sounded his bugle – it was a fantastic experience. The next two hours were free, so we decided to do a bit if exploring on our own. We ate our Subway lunch and walked around the cobbled square. The next item on our itinerary was a tour of medieval Prague. Not something that a history lover can afford to miss. Our first stop was the St Vitus’ Cathedral located in the castle on top of a hill. It’s impossible to describe the grandeur of the Cathedral. Gothic in conception, spires reaching heavenward, delicate filigree work, a massive scale and the romance of thousands of magnificent carvings, the Cathedral is a true work of art. It was deliciously cool inside the Cathedral after the heat wave outside. Wonderful stories are told through the stained glass panels. In the royal crypt within the Cathedral lie Bohemian kings and queens. We visited the castle grounds, and paid a visit to the Basilica as well. Not as impressive after the Cathedral since besides its grandeur, everything pales in comparison. The walking tours was about 2 hours and included a trip to the Golden Lane. This is an ancient street with 11 miniature houses set within the castle complex and dates from the 15^th century. We were charmed to find Franz Kafka’s house in the Golden Lane. It was an exhausting day because of the heat, but its 7.30pm and time for dinner. We eat at the Barcelo’s restaurant tonight.